Skin, Hormones and Timing: The Missing Link in Your Routine
- Amelia Castillo
- Apr 16
- 5 min read
It wasn’t until my 30’s I learned women go through 4 phases a month, not just one. Which is wild when you think about it. This means every phase our hormones are doing a different dance. I blame the fact that it wasn’t until my 30s that I even knew this on the lack of women's health being studied or even talked about until recently. Thankfully, this is starting to become a mainstream conversation, but what isn’t talked about: with each of these phases your skin is affected and might need a different approach at each step.
I say it all the time: the body is very connected and the skin is a communicative organ. To truly be able to support your skin we need to understand what is happening within our bodies. So let’s break this down into what happens at each phase, how your skin is affected, and what you can do to support your skin at each step.
The first phase: Menstrual Phase (Days 1-5)
One sentence to describe this phase: Proceed with cation
So much is going on behind the scenes during this phase, that your energy becomes much lower. Hormones, especially estrogen and progesterone drop to their lowest levels all month. Which explains why you’re tired, your patience is limited and everything feels kind of blah. To add to it, your blood flow and nutrient delivery can even be slightly reduced. Your body shifts into a state of release and repair. Internally, your body is focused on shedding, recalibrating and conserving energy. During this phase everything slows down except Inflammation, she rises.
So how do we see this affect the skin?
During this phase your skin can feel a little dramatic and be more sensitive and reactive. Products you always use might even sting. Dryness and dehydration go up along with redness and flushing. Your skin almost feels thinner and fragile. Big thing to remember: YOUR BARRIER IS MORE VULNERABLE during this phase.
What to do:
Think: support, soothe and protect. This is not the best time for an aggressive treatment or even strong actives in your skincare (retinols, acids etc) . You really don’t want to be overstimulating the skin.
It is best to focus on barrier repair products, deep hydration both external and internal. This is also a great time for calming ingredients and treatments.
Internal support:
Rest! Beauty sleep is real and in this phase especially your body needs it.
Up the iron. (grass fed organic red meats, lentils, spinach)
Magnesium is your bestie during this phase.
Eat your Omega-3s.
Warm, easy to digest meals, like soups and broths.
Gentle movement, baths and saunas all help during this time.
What you are trying to do is lower your inflammation, provide nutrient support, support the skin barrier and give your body healing rest which all of these will improve your skin health through this phase.
The second phase: Follicular Phase (Days 6-13)
One sentence to describe this phase: New week, New me!
This is the phase where you start to feel alive again and more “like yourself.” Everything starts to rise, your estrogen climbs, blood flow and oxygen delivery improves, collagen production gets a boost, cell turnover picks back up and your energy is back, thank goodness! you are shifting out of restore to rebuild mode.
How does this affect the skin?
During this phase your skin is brighter, more even, smoother texture, better hydration and less sensitive. This is when a lot of people are loving their skin. A big thing that happens here is your skin is more resilient.
What to do:
During this phase it is a good time to start doing a little bit more. Think: stimulate, strengthen, optimize. Your skin is actually it’s most receptive here, which means what you do during this time tends to give the best results. Focus on gentle exfoliation, supporting cell turnover, antioxidants and light corrective work. You can also bring back actives (retinols, acids etc)
Internal support:
Increase your workouts here, get a good sweat on we want to help detox the body slightly.
Eat protein
Eat your ABCs, (foods high in vitamin A B and C) plus food with zinc. leafy greens and fiber; these support estrogen metabolism.
And of course drink your water!
The third phase: Ovulation Phase (around day 14)
One sentence to describe this phase: Main character energy
Here your body is its most vibrant, radiant self. Estrogen is at its highest. Testosterone is slightly increased. Blood flow and circulation also peaks. Collagen production is supported and full vibe. You may feel more confident, social and energized. Biologically speaking you are at 100% and it makes sense when you think about it, your body is ready to reproduce and attract a mate.
How does this affect the skin?
This is your skin's big moment. She is her best self. Your skin has a natural glow, it’s plumper, smoother, your pores even look smaller. This is the time you pray you run into that ex who broke your heart.
What to do:
Here we want to enhance not overwhelm.
Just because your skin looks its best doesn't mean you should push it the hardest.
Focus on antioxidants, hydration, barrier support, light exfoliations.
In a perfect world this is when you are going to events and taking all the photos.
Internally support:
This is a great time to up your antioxidant rich foods.
Keep the foods high in zinc.
Still be drinking water
Enjoy this time but don’t try and overdo it because you are feeling great.
What we want to do here is protect the collagen boost we are getting and reduce oxidative stress which will result in a longer lasting glow.
Important note: While ovulation is technically 1 day the hormonal peak surrounding it lasts several days
The fourth phase: Luteal Phase (day 15-28)
One sentence to describe this phase: Don’t test me!
Okay here’s where things get weird. After ovulation, progesterone rises to support a potential pregnancy. IF pregnancy doesn’t occur, both progesterone and estrogen begin to drop towards the end of this phase. It is this shift where the drama begins.
So progesterone increases and then drops (fun), oil production increases, pores swell (I know! WTH?!) inflammation rises, here comes the bloating and fatigue. This is where we all go “crap she is coming!”
So what happens to your skin?
Increased oiliness, hello breakouts, congestion and clogged pores, texture feels uneven and bumpy, you look dull or puffy. This is the time where many people start to freak out and want a whole new skincare regiment and run to tic tok looking for a magic fix. Please slow down, take a breath and let me guide you.
What to do:
Your skin needs balance, support and guidance. Focus on gentle exfoliation, pro tip over exfoliation is never the answer. Use products that support oil balance, anti-inflammatory support and consistency. No panic switching.
Internal support:
Prioritize sleep!
Do not give into the sugar cravings!
Reduce your stress if possible if not make sure you are prioritizing things that help you relieve stress.
Hydration and lymphatic support are also huge here.
Up the fiber and cruciferous veggies, protein and healthy fats.
Fun fact, healthy fats help cut sugar cravings.
We want to help balance the hormones and stable the blood sugar resulting in fewer breakouts and less congestion.
I know this is a lot and can seem overwhelming. You might be thinking “who has time for all of this?” Please remember this does not mean you need a new routine every week. This is about understanding your body, the connection it has with the skin and how we can support it. When we start to understand this we stop chasing quick fixes and start supporting our bodies without judgement. And this is when the magic really happens.
If you notice a big shift in your skin during one of these or all of these phases, schedule an appointment with me and I will review your home products, your in-office treatments, and guide you to using what your skin is telling you it needs.
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